Supply Shopping List

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1. A Suitable Cage

Commercial cages, DIY cages, converted furniture, aquariums and terrariums are all options for hamsters owners. Remember hamsters are ground dwellers and wall huggers. They need length and width far more than they need height. Round cages are also unfavoured by hamsters as they feel safer in homes with corners to hide in.

Avoid cages such as habitrails, crittertails and rotastaks which are designed for the enjoyment of small children and are not appropriate homes for a living animal.

As of 2016 the bare minimum size cage for a hamster to live in permanently is 450sq inches

(75 x 40cm or equivalent) however some EU countries have much higher expectations than this so be sure to double check on hamster forums for your local size guides if you are unsure.

2. Safe Substrate

Substrate is different from bedding, it lines the base of the cage for the hamster to dig in as well as to collect droppings and urine and control odour.

Most pine shavings are unsafe to use due to the toxic phenols which have been proven to cause severe respiratory health problems in small animals. However kiln dried, dust extracted woodshavings are safe as the drying process removes the phenols.

Other safe substrates include;

Aspen shavings
Paper based substrates
Hemp based substrates
Beechwood
Children's play sand
Wood-based cat litter pellets (not clay or clumping cat litter)
Paper based cat litter

Unsafe substrates include;

Pine shavings
Sawdust
Cedar shavings

3. Hamster Food

Your hamsters diet is very important, a good diet can make a big difference to your hamsters health so be sure to pick your food carefully.

When looking for a food make sure you read the nutritional information on the back of the bag before purchasing. The general rule is that a good food mix should contain 19% protein, 6% fat and 8% fibre but it can be hard to find foods with these exact amounts.

If you are having trouble finding foods with these amounts you can opt for a mix with less protein or less fibre and supplement these with other safe high protein or high fibre foods.

4. A Wheel

Having the right sized wheel is very important. Having a wheel that is too small and causes the hamster's spine to arch inwards can cause severe back pain and complications especially in later life. You also need to avoid mesh and barred wheels as these often cause serious injuries in hamsters including broken legs and toes. Some people buy the smaller size while their hamsters are babies and then upgrade as they grow but I'd recommend you save the money by buying the adult sized wheel even when they are babies. They will still be able to use it and they won't outgrow it. When in doubt it is better to have a wheel that is a little too big than a little too small.

Hamster wheel size chart;

Roborovski 6" - 8"
Winter white/Campbells/Chinese hamsters 8"
Syrians 8" - 12"

5. Toys

If you have a dwarf or Chinese hamster you can buy products sold for hamsters but if you have a Syrian hamster you will need to buy products sold for rats so that they are big enough.

Every hamster has different hobbies, some enjoy climbing, some enjoy digging, some enjoy chewing and others just like to explore! So try out lots of different toys, hammocks, dig boxes, climbing frames, tunnels, see saws, wicker toys, etc

A good idea is to buy enough toys to fill the cage and keep some in a toy box, that way every few weeks you can swap the toys over and give your hamster something new to play with!

6. Travel Cage (Traveller)

An important thing to buy before getting your hamster is the traveller. Most rescues or pet shops will provide you will a cardboard box to take your pet home in but this is not the safest way to bring them home as most will chew their way out!

Buy a good quality traveller - it can either be one made for rodents, a fish traveller, small hamster cage or a bin-traveller (similar to a bin cage but smaller) .

Fill the traveller with substrate and lots of bedding as well as a slice of cucumber for the journey home. This will ensure your pet is safe and comfy as well as providing it with a source of moisture.

7. Safe Bedding

Avoid "fluffy" bedding.

Fluffy bedding is always sold with the same 'safe bedding' claim but it is the most dangerous bedding on sale for rodent owners. It resembles cotton wool and feels very soft but is notorious for causing serious injury and even death in hamsters.

It's common for hamsters to ingest their bedding especially when trying to "pouch" it, but cotton wool or "fluffy" bedding does not break down in the digestive system and can become lodged inside their small intestine - this is incredibly painful as the hamster tries to pass it and can prevent the hamster from defecating because of the blockage. Eventually, if not helped by a vet this can result in the death of the hamster.

Other dangers of fluffy bedding include the small, strong fibres becoming entangled around the teeth and limbs. When stuck a hamster may go so far as to chew through limbs to free itself and the sudden loss of blood and shock can kill the hamster.

A safe and affordable alternative is regular toilet paper torn into strips. Place this inside the cage and leave your hamster to build their nest. The toilet paper is clean, safe, easy to digest and absorbent. You can also use commercial paper based beddings which are safe and cosy.

8. Water Bottle or Bowl

There are many different types of water bottles available so you have a lot of choice. You will want a leak proof bottle that holds at least 15ml of liquid.

Optionally you could also use a water bowl which is the more natural choice, this should be small enough that your hamster cannot climb inside it to prevent them from becoming soaked. Baby hamsters under 10 weeks old should be given a bottle for safety reasons.

You should clean a bottle at least 3 times a week with a bottle brush (another good thing to buy!) to make sure you get all of the bottle clean - don't forget to wash inside the spout too so you can prevent algae growth. Bowls should be cleaned daily.

9. Wooden Pet Chews

Not all hamsters chew for fun but all hamsters chew for health! Healthy hamsters don't lose their teeth but instead their teeth grow continuously - because of this the length must be kept short through the act of eating hard food and chewing wooden toys.

If hamsters teeth are allowed to grow too long this can cause them injury

and discomfort. Clipping is needed for some but so long as you supply

your hamster with pet safe chews that you can buy from pet shops or

online, they should exercise their natural instinct to keep their teeth

healthy through chewing. Chew toys can also help discourage bad

behaviours such as bar chewing and chewing plastic.

10. An Exotic Pet Vet

Hamsters are classed as 'exotic pets' as most regular vets are still not taught how to treat them medically - though with hamsters having been a popular family pet for the last 60 years this is very surprising!

Before you buy your hamster ring around your local vets and find out if any of them have had training in hamster medical care - if they haven't then avoid using this vet as hamsters can suffer with many complicated illnesses that will require specialists to diagnose and treat. When you have found a vet who treats hamsters then register with them and keep their address, number and emergency number somewhere safe where any family member can find it.

Hamsters don't need vaccinations or regular vet trips, they also only need spaying and neutering if it is medically required (males and females should not be housed together) but hamsters are prone to certain illnesses from colds to cancer and being such a delicate animal any sign of illness will mean a trip to the vet for treatment.

Never delay taking a hamster to the vet, as prey animals they do not show symptoms of illness until they are very ill - as soon as symptoms show it is classed as serious and hamsters can pass of illness within just days.